Jooni

An exemplary photo of a Yew bonsai

Yew

4 Species

Species

Taxus baccata Taxus brevifolia Taxus canadensis Taxus cuspidata

Yew (Taxus baccata, the European yew, and Taxus cuspidata, the Japanese yew) is one of the classic conifers for bonsai. A yew bonsai is an outdoor tree: the species is fully frost-hardy and needs a cool winter rest. It suits patient beginners, because it tolerates shade, hard pruning and the odd mistake better than most conifers, although it grows slowly.

Its standout traits are dense, dark green needles, reddish-brown flaking bark, superb deadwood (jin and shari) and the rare ability to bud back from old wood. All parts except the red fleshy aril are highly toxic, especially the seeds, so wear gloves when pruning and keep clippings away from children and pets.

At a glance Taxus baccata

Difficulty
Beginner
Placement
Outdoors
Light
Sun to partial shade
Watering
Moderate
Min. temperature
-10°C (14°F)
Foliage
Evergreen

Fertilizing

Feed once a month from spring until early autumn with an organic fertilizer at half the dose on the label. Yews grow slowly and do not need heavy feeding; overfeeding does more harm than good.

  • Stop feeding in winter, while the tree is dormant.
  • Wait about 4 weeks after repotting before feeding.

Placement

A yew bonsai is an outdoor tree all year round; never keep it indoors, as it needs a cold winter rest. It grows well in full sun to partial shade, ideally with morning sun and shade from the hot afternoon sun in summer, which dries the soil and can scorch the needles.

The tree itself is very frost-hardy, but roots in a pot are much less so. Protect the pot once frosts drop below about -10°C (14°F) by moving it to a sheltered, unheated spot such as a cold frame, an unheated garage with some light or a bed where the pot can be sunk into the ground.

Pruning

Trim new shoots once they have extended and started to harden, from late spring to early summer, cutting them back to a few needles; a second light trim in late summer keeps the pads compact. Yews bud back readily, even from old wood, which makes them excellent for restyling.

Never remove more than one-third of the foliage at a time, and give the tree time to recover between major sessions. Do structural pruning in late winter or early autumn, avoiding extreme heat and frost.

  • Seal large cuts with cut paste, or turn branch stubs into jin and shari.
  • Wire from autumn to early spring; the branches are flexible but set slowly.
  • Wear gloves: all parts except the red aril are highly toxic.

Repotting

Repot every 3–5 years in spring, as the buds begin to swell. Remove no more than a third of the roots and trim away rotten or circling ones.

  • Use a free-draining mix of roughly equal parts akadama, pumice and lava rock.
  • Add more water-retaining akadama in hot, dry climates and more grit in very wet ones.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top of the soil begins to dry, checking with a finger about 1 cm (half an inch) deep. Yews tolerate slightly dry conditions better than wet ones, so never keep the soil constantly wet.

  • Water more often in hot weather and much less in winter, without letting the root ball dry out completely.
  • Never leave the pot standing in water, which invites root rot.

Seasonal care

  • Spring: Repot every 3–5 years as the buds begin to swell, and resume half-strength organic feeding once new growth appears. Protect the tender shoots from late frosts.
  • Summer: Trim the new shoots once they start to harden, shield the tree from hot afternoon sun and water when the top layer starts to dry. A second light trim in late summer keeps the foliage pads dense.
  • Autumn: Feed moderately until early autumn, then stop. This is a good time for structural pruning and wiring.
  • Winter: The yew is dormant outdoors, so do not feed and water sparingly without letting the root ball dry out. Protect the pot from frosts below about -10°C (14°F) in a sheltered, unheated spot, because roots in a container are far less hardy than the tree itself.

Common problems

Yews are tough trees, and most trouble comes from wet roots or a handful of typical pests.

  • Root rot: Waterlogged soil invites Phytophthora, which shows as yellowing or browning needles and dying branches. Use a free-draining mix of akadama, pumice and lava rock, and never leave the pot standing in water.
  • Vine weevil: The larvae eat the roots of potted yews, while the adult beetles notch the needles at night. Look for white, C-shaped grubs when repotting and apply beneficial nematodes in spring or late summer.
  • Scale insects: Brown or white bumps on shoots and needle undersides, often with sticky honeydew and black sooty mould. Scrape them off by hand and treat heavy infestations with horticultural oil.
  • Weakness after pruning: Removing more than one-third of the foliage, or pruning in extreme heat or cold, sets the tree back badly. Spread major work over several seasons.
  • Poisoning risk: Needles, bark and seeds are highly toxic to people and animals. Keep clippings away from children, pets and livestock.