Fertilizing
Feed from spring until early autumn, either with a solid organic bonsai fertilizer every 4–6 weeks or with a liquid fertilizer every two weeks at the dose on the label. Young trees in development can be fed more generously; older, refined trees need less to keep their foliage compact.
- Pause feeding for about four weeks after repotting.
- In a cool winter spot, stop feeding; a tree that keeps growing in a warm room can have a monthly half-strength feed.
Placement
From spring to autumn, keep the tree outdoors in full sun to partial shade. After a winter under cover, put it in partial shade for about two weeks before moving it into full sun, so the leaves do not scorch.
Before nights drop below about 5°C (41°F), move it to a bright, cool, frost-free place, ideally at 5–15°C (41–59°F), such as a cool greenhouse, a conservatory or the sunniest window of an unheated room. In climates without frost it can stay outdoors all year, and it can also be kept indoors year-round if it gets plenty of light.
Pruning
Let new shoots extend and then cut or pinch them back, leaving a few leaves, throughout the growing season. Podocarpus responds with new buds within a few weeks, so regular trimming is the key to dense, fine branching.
- On young trees, let the lower branches grow to 10–20 cm before cutting them back to thicken them.
- Avoid large sacrifice branches: big wounds heal slowly, so seal large cuts with wound paste.
- Wire in spring or summer; the branches bend easily, but check often so the wire does not bite in.
Repotting
Repot young trees every 2–3 years and older specimens every 3–5 years, in spring once the weather has warmed and growth starts. Prune the roots moderately and always leave a good amount of fine roots.
- Use a free-draining, slightly acidic bonsai mix based on akadama, with some pumice or lava.
- Trees bought in heavy clay or dense nursery soil should be moved to bonsai soil gradually, replacing part of the old soil at each repotting.
- Cover the drainage holes with mesh so the soil does not wash out.
Watering
Keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy, letting the surface dry slightly between waterings. Never let the root ball dry out completely, as dried-out roots are slow to recover.
How often you water depends on light, temperature and pot size. Outdoors or indoors in summer, the tree may need water every one to two days; in a cool winter spot, sometimes only once a week. A humidity tray helps indoor trees in rooms with dry, heated air.
Seasonal care
- Spring: Move the tree outdoors once nights stay above 5°C and acclimatize it in partial shade before full sun. Repot when growth starts and begin feeding.
- Summer: Water as soon as the surface dries, trim new shoots regularly and feed. Give light shade during extreme heat.
- Autumn: Feed for the last time in early autumn and reduce watering as growth slows. Bring the tree to its winter spot before nights drop below 5°C.
- Winter: Keep it bright, cool and frost-free at 5–15°C, watering sparingly. Check regularly for scale insects and spider mites.
Common problems
Podocarpus is robust, but it does have a few typical issues.
- Scale insects and mealybugs: Small brown bumps or white, cottony tufts on leaves and stems, often in winter quarters. Wipe or pick them off and treat with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
- Spider mites: Fine webbing and pale, speckled leaves in dry, warm indoor air. Rinse the foliage, raise humidity and treat with a miticide if needed.
- Yellowing or dropping leaves: Usually too little light indoors, overwatering or a root ball that dried out. Give it the brightest spot available and water when the surface starts to dry.
- Root rot: Brown roots and a wilting tree in soil that stays wet, especially in dense soil. Repot into a free-draining mix and never let the pot stand in water.
- Toxicity: The leaves and seeds are toxic to dogs, cats and other animals. Keep the tree out of reach of pets and children, and clear up fallen leaves.